History of Bracciano
 

Lake Bracciano is less than 30 kms from Rome in the Lazio region.  Four medium sized towns surround the lake, Bracciano being the largest and most majestic with her castle, which sits upon a hill overlooking the lake. The other three towns are Anguillara to the east, Trevignano to the north (or across the lake from Bracciano) and Manziana to the east and inland from the lake.  Each town has its own history, charm and distinguishing characteristics and all have winding small cobblestone streets, Roman walls and aqueducts, which pass through them.

Rolling hills and pastureland surrounds the lake area.  The town is located atop a large hill, which is crowned with the Castle of Bracciano.  Owned and presently occupied by the Odescalchi family.

The ancient Latin name for Bracciano was Arcenum, which means fortified, closed place.  It derived its name from the fact that the town was located high on top of a hill and could view the surrounding mountains and the lake and protect itself from invaders.

Legend derives the name Bracciano from the finding of an arm of the statue of Janus (Brachlum Jani – Brachiani) during the excavations for the construction of the Orsini castle.

At the beginning of the 15^th Century the Orsini family (which means ‘little bears’) installed itself on the shores of Lake Sabatino, which they had received as a domain and transformed the small hamlet inhabited by fishermen, farmers and horse breeders into an affluent town.

It was the Orsini family who decided to enlarge the existing fortress and build a castle by constructing five cylindrical towers and a marvellous triangular courtyard.  Construction was begun by Neopoleoned Orsini in 1470 and completed by his son Virgilio in 1485.  Rich and magnificent masterpieces from Antonazzo Romano, Pisanello, Francesco Martini and his brother Giorgio, and Zachary embellish the castle.

Eventually, after centuries of internecine battles and financial loss the Orsinis lost the castle in the 19^th Century when it fell into the hands of the princely Odescalchi family.  Princess Odescalchi lives in the castle today and its major staterooms are open to visitors all year round.  During the summer months it plays host to symphonic concerts, festive receptions and weddings, when flaming torches are lit around the ramparts in addition to the usual floodlighting.  The castle has frequently been used as a location for filming, most recently in Kenneth Branagh’s film of ‘Othello’.

The Lake of Bracciano

Lake Bracciano is a volcanic lake with black, sandy shores extending over 57 square kms, with a perimeter of 33 kms.  It can be completely toured by car on a panoramic road, which circles the entire lake.  It is about 160 meters deep (Jacques Cousteau failed to reach the bottom during an expedition in the 1960’s!) and has two drainage points:  The Annone River and the Paulus Aquaduct, which feed the lake, as well as an artificial ‘lock’ to keep the level of water constant.  The lake is also fed by underwater hot springs, which help to ensure a temperature during summer of around 70 –80 degrees Fahrenheit.  The waters, which feed the fountains of St Peter’s via a Roman aqueduct and which are designated as a reserve for the city of Rome are clean, crisp and excellent for swimming.  The abundance of plant and animal life including many varieties of fish, birds and mammals are eloquent testimony to the purity of the water.

The presence of human beings over the centuries has been documented in archaeological remains found in the waters and on the land surrounding the lake.  In May 1996 divers from the department of underwater archaeology of the Italian Ministry of Culture discovered a Roman villa dated 1st or 2^nd Century B.C. Local folklore says that in addition to underwater villages the legendary city of Sabate is submerged beneath the lake.

At Vicarello, between Bracciano and Trevignano, the Roman legions observed a period of quarantine (40 days – quarante) to rid themselves of any diseases before proceeding to Rome on the Via Cassia for their triumphs following victories in Northern Europe.

Lake Sports

There are rental companies along the lakeside at Bracciano where various craft (canoes, paddleboats, windsurfers etc.) may be hired and which are happy to oblige with a lesson or two.  We are not sure about sailing craft, but there are yacht clubs in both Bracciano and Anguillara where enquiries can be made.

Boat Tours of the Lake

There is a ferry, which can be taken around the lake.  It can be picked up at any of the towns about three times a day, including Sundays.  In Bracciano the pier is at the end of Lungolago Argenti at the Bar de Molo (06 996 8108).  For information about the boat it is best to enquire there, as the hours of operation change seasonally.  Round trips prices 1997 – Lire 7,500.

Places of interest:

Strolling around the medieval town the following buildings are of architectural and artistic interest:

Fountain in Town Hall Square – attributed to Vignola.

St Stephen’s Collegiate Church with painting by Domenichino, Maratta and 14^th Century Tuscan school altarpiece.

St Sebastian’s Church with wonderful fresco by Antonazzo Roman and medieval hospital attached.

Santa Maria del Risposo with frescoed chapel by the Zucari brothers.

Santa Maria Novella Convent and Church with an interesting sculpture featuring Orsini coat of arms and the Agostinian symbols.

Castle Tour:  The Castello Odescalchi di Bracciano is open to the general public for tours.  The tour hours are posted outside the ticket office in the castle square – Piazza Mazzini. 

Classical Music:  Sometimes during the summer there are special chamber music performances.  These concerts are usually posted on the town walls, where activities are announced.

Aviation Museum at Vigna di Valle:  Before the World War II, Bracciano was used as a main ‘airport’ for Rome on the flying boat route to Cairo/Khartoum/South Africa and the aeronautical installations are still in use today by the Italian Air Force.  Three hangars were converted when the museum was opened in 1977 as one of Europe’s first and most important aeronautical history museums.  In addition to an extensive display of unique military and vintage aircraft, there are displays about Leonardo da Vinci’s experiments with flight, and a section devoted to Nobile, the famous Italian arctic explorer by airship.

Tennis and Running Track:  There are public tennis courts behind the town.  The courts are made of clay and there is a rental fee per hour.  The running track is free and located down the road from the tennis courts.

Eating Out:
 

Shopping:       

The town is full of excellent little food shops, Small supermarkets – Bigi, opposite the Post Office, Hypermarket – Sidis (open even on Sunday 1./2 day) 5kms from the town on the road to Rome.

1/2 day closing is on Thursday

Short Days Out and Half Days:

Sutri:   Small hilltop town on the road to Viterbo.  At the entrance to the town, on the left, is a fine Roman amphitheatre carved in the rock, Etruscan tombs, and a fascinating Mithraic temple.  The caretakers are welcoming and conduct tours lasting about 1 hour.  About 15 minutes by car.

Ceri:    Pronounced ‘Cherry’, this is a medieval hilltop town with high walls and bridges to throw hot oil!  A beautiful town and good for an evening destination as there are little restaurants and pizzerias.  About 15 minutes by car.

Cerveteri:  Heart of the Etruscan civilisation.  Very fine museums and impressive, extensive necropolis with amazing tombs.  Nice picnic area at entrance to necropolis.  About 30 minutes by car.

Ostia Antica:  Remarkably well preserved remains of Rome’s main commercial port, giving a very complete picture of life under the Roman Empire.  Lovely for picnics.    About 1 hour by car.

Long Days Out

Viterbo:  Very picturesque walled city with almost intact 13^th Century urban fabric in medieval quarter, papal palace etc.  About 1 hour by car.

Bomarzo:  Unique 16^th Century gardens with fantastic ‘monster’ sculptures.  Near Viterbo.

Caprarola:  Palazzo Farnese – wonderful 16^th century palace with frescoes by Michelangelo.  Near Viterbo.

Bagnaia:  Villa Lante – perfect 16^th Century formal gardens with fountains.  Villa closed – it houses Prince Charles’ architectural summer school.  Outskirts of Viterbo.

Tivoli:  Villa d’Este – Hadrian’s villa.  About 1 hour via the Rome ring road (Raccordo).